Tie- Love it, Hate it, Wear it
Yes or No to the necktie? That is the question. For some, it is a declaration of social status and conformity to the rules of etiquette of dressing; for others, it is liberation from the closed neck and the paradise of open shirt collars. Irrespective of where you stand, wearing a tie speaks first and foremost of the act itself. Businessmen, politicians, and actors all have their preferences, which like a session with a shrink, reveal their true personalities.
Donald Trump wears bold red whilst Barack Obama preferred to wear blue to match their party colours, John F Kennedy wore fine diamond pattern that reflected ‘modernity and reform’, Ronald Raegan wore ties with regimental stripes promoting ‘conservatism’. Robert Downey Jr wears thin dark ties with a Single Knot signifying elegance with simplicity, whilst Will Smith prefers the Windsor Knot, a symbol of force and dynamism. Whatever the tie, whichever the knot, each has its own hidden language and connotations, and that’s where ties take an esteemed place in the wardrobe of men.
History & Origins of the Tie?
Tie as we know it was born in New York in 1924 thanks to Jesse Langsdorf, who cut the fabric at a 45-degree bias angle to the salvage, using three strips of silk that he sewed together in succession. The idea was patented and exported all over the world. Even today, quality ties are made following the same procedure.
What makes a Quality Tie?
Silk is the principal material used, and the quality of a tie can be recognised by touch alone. Next comes the stitching. A good tie is usually comprised of three pieces of variously sized fabrics that are sewn together. Careful examination will reveal that in higher quality ties the seams between individual parts are executed with a sewing machine. The stitches that give body to the tie on the inside, on the other hand, should be done by hand.
Which knot is best for me?
Mathematically there are 85 ways to tie a knot, and 13 of which are considered a classic, but for simplicity sake, the most popular 4 versions are as below:
Simple Knot: The great classic of necktie knots is the most used and preferred, as it works with every shirt collar type and most ties of varying widths.
Double Knot: Thicker than the simple knot, works best with slim to medium width ties.
Little Knot: Works best with thick wide ties, or shirts with narrow collars, and involves making a 180-degree twist to tie it perfectly.
Windsor Knot: Can be done as a half, single or double knot, its name derives from the Duke of Windsor and have Very English taste.
The rules for tying the perfect tie?
Sometimes difficult to tie – and possibly needs much practice to get it perfect every time – there are some rules to know and learn on how to wear a tie. It should fall at the exact centre of the collar and hide the uppermost button of the shirt. It should sit on top of the belt and not over and under the belt. And the back tail needs to be tucked away inside the loop on the back of the front-facing piece.
Ideally, the best shirts are lighter coloured shirts to be worn with darker ties. Avoid bright shirts with bright ties as it is overwhelming, and doesn’t look elegant. Pick ties that match your face and eyes, and bold ties to be worn with dark conservative suits.
Who are the Best Tie Makers of The World?
As in suits, there is a split between London and Naples, or the English and the Italians. For the ties, there is the printed silk, usually thinner and softer, and then there’s woven silk, thicker and heavier ties.
English manufacturers include Drake’s, Charles Hill and Holliday & Brown. These supply ties to Gieves & Hawkes, Turnbull & Asser, Hilditch & Key and Tobias Tailors on Savile Row. Excellence in quality is achieved as they are produced either in a factory or a manufacturing plant, but instead are sewn by an independent tie maker, resulting in a one-of-a-kind item.
The best hand-sewn French ties are made by Charvet and Hermes, which offers its fans one of the few models of the Seven Fold Tie, one cut from a single piece of silk and containing no seams. You can also download an app Hermes Tie Break which has more tips on ties.
Neapolitan houses can be distinguished by how they work their silk – is it a printed pattern that runs through the whole silk cloth to be converted into ties; or is the design woven into the mesh of the fabric and is based on the way in which the threads of the warp and weft are combined. The only names worth remembering are Marinella, Marzullo and Cliento; with Marinella recognised as the world’s largest supplier of quality ties, most of which is labelled under recognisable fashion brands like Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Ermenegildo Zegna and so on.
What can AZRIM do for you?
At AZRIM, we stock a decent selection of the finest silk ties from most leading manufacturers, priced from $99 to $499 in classic, modern and bold patterns. We carry mostly hand-made silk ties, or high quality manufactured silk ties from leading global brands including, Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani, Brioni, Brooks Brothers, Satori, Isaia, Michael Kors, Dom Bagnato, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, and many more.
Something very unique that we offer is Carnaval de Venise – recognised as one of the bestNeapolitan tie makers. Their fabric is seven layers of silk, hand combed and woven into intricate patterns and exclusive designs limited to only 99 ties. Each tie takes over 40 hours to make, similar to a suit, by a tie maker by hand. The detailing of the silk pattern, the stitching and the finish are second to none. These are collectors’ items and sought after by fashion and clothier enthusiasts, like watches and cufflinks.
To view the selection, and to place an order, you can book an appointment by visiting our website: https:www.azrim.com.au. For more tips and news, follow us on LinkedIn or by looking us up on Instagram and Facebook.
Would love to get your feedback on this article, and get to know more on which ties are your favourite, how you wear them, and happy to answer any questions you may have.